In the high-stakes world of the New York Diamond District, there is a word that gets thrown around more than any other: “Flawless.” To many first-time buyers and even some retailers, it represents the pinnacle of luxury. But after 20 years at Empire Casting House, we have learned that “Flawless” on a grading report and “Flawless” on a finger are two very different things.

The truth is that diamond clarity is perhaps the most misunderstood of the 4Cs. If you know the industry secrets of “eye-clean” stones, you can secure a diamond that looks identical to a collector’s piece while saving thousands of dollars—funds that are often better spent on a superior cut or a larger carat weight.

What is diamond clarity, really?

Think of diamond inclusions as nature’s birthmarks. As diamonds form under extreme heat and pressure, other minerals or internal irregularities can get trapped inside the crystal. Clarity is simply a measure of how many of these “birthmarks” are present under a 10x magnification jeweler’s loupe.

The GIA clarity scale ranges from Flawless (FL)—where no inclusions are visible even under magnification—to Included (I3), where flaws are obvious to the naked eye. However, the vast majority of diamonds sold today fall into the “sweet spot” of the scale: VS (Very Slightly Included) and SI (Slightly Included).

The “Eye-Clean” standard

In the trade, we look for eye-clean diamonds. A stone is considered eye-clean if its inclusions are invisible to the unaided eye when viewed face-up from a normal distance of about 10 to 12 inches.

Here is why this matters: Flawless diamonds do not necessarily sparkle more. Sparkle is a function of cut quality, not clarity. Most VS and even well-selected SI diamonds will have the same fire and brilliance as a Flawless stone, provided the cut is excellent.

Why VS2 and SI1 are the ultimate value grades

For those seeking the best balance of beauty and budget, the VS2 and SI1 grades are almost always the answer.

• VS2 (Very Slightly Included): These diamonds contain minor inclusions that are difficult to see even under 10x magnification. To the naked eye, a VS2 diamond is virtually indistinguishable from a VVS or Flawless stone. Choosing a VS2 can save you roughly 20-30% compared to a VVS stone of the same size and color.
• SI1 (Slightly Included): These stones are the “hidden gems” of the market. While they have noticeable inclusions under a microscope, many are perfectly eye-clean in real-world conditions. By choosing an eye-clean SI1, you can often save enough to upgrade your diamond’s size by 10% or more without any visible loss in quality.

The expert’s checklist for choosing clarity

Not all inclusions are created equal. When our team at Empire Casting House evaluates stones for our clients, we look at several factors:

1. Inclusion Type: Transparent “Twinning Wisps” or white “Pinpoints” are often invisible without a loupe. On the other hand, black “Carbon Crystals” or large “Feathers” (internal cracks) can be more distracting if they are centrally located.
2. The Role of the Cut: Round Brilliant, Oval, and Cushion cuts are exceptional at masking inclusions due to their complex facet patterns. Conversely, Step Cuts (like Emerald or Asscher) have wide, open tables that act like windows, making inclusions much more obvious. For these shapes, we always recommend sticking to VS2 or higher.
3. Location, Location, Location: An inclusion sitting right under the center “table” facet is a red flag. However, an inclusion near the edge can often be hidden under a prong during the setting process.

How Empire Casting House ensures quality?

As a wholesale manufacturer in NYC, we don’t just supply diamonds; we build the jewelry that holds them. Our CAD designers and master setters work in tandem to ensure that every stone is presented in its best light.

Whether we are sourcing GIA-certified natural diamonds or high-quality lab-grown options, we prioritize transparency. We hold certifications from RAPNET, JBT, MJSA, and GIA, ensuring that every stone we handle meets the rigorous standards our retail partners expect. Through our CAD design and precision casting, we can often strategically place settings to maximize the “eye-clean” effect of a value-grade diamond.

The “Eye-Clean Secret” is simple: unless you are a collector who values rarity for its own sake, there is no reason to pay a premium for a Flawless or VVS diamond. By focusing on eye-clean VS2 or SI1 stones, you are making a smart, value-driven investment in a diamond that will look perfect to everyone who sees it.

Ready to find the perfect stone for your next collection? At Empire Casting House, we provide end-to-end manufacturing and diamond supply services to help you bring your vision to life without overpaying for “invisible” grades.

Contact our New York office today to explore our diamond inventory and custom CAD services. Visit us at EmpireCastingHouse.com to learn more.